Build your own chicken run

Build a run that foxes can’t “eventually figure out”.

A chicken run is a security system. If you build it like garden furniture, you’ll learn the hard way. Here are simple designs with the non-negotiable predator-proof details.

Important: chicken wire keeps chickens in. It does not keep predators out. Use welded mesh/hardware cloth in fox-pressure areas.
Materials 3 designs Dig-proofing Latches & doors

The 7 non-negotiables (read this first)

1) Welded mesh

Use strong welded mesh (not flimsy wire). Pay attention to gauge and aperture size.

2) Roof or cover

Stops climbing predators and reduces wild bird contact during bird flu risk periods.

3) Dig-proof skirt

Mesh skirt outward from the base, or bury mesh — foxes dig.

4) Strong latches

Use bolts + carabiners/locks. Predators can flip simple hooks.

5) No gaps

Any gap a head fits through is a problem. Check corners and door edges.

6) Dry ground plan

Mud is not just gross — it drives parasites and foot issues.

7) Human access

If you can’t stand and clean easily, you won’t keep it clean.

Design target: safe, easy to clean, easy to expand.

Before you build: 5 quick deep dives

These pages answer the “gotchas” that cost money and hens. Read them once, build once.

Design 1: Simple walk-in run (best for most gardens)

Rectangular timber frame + welded mesh + a solid roof section (or full roof). Easy to scale and maintain.

Door Roof mesh

Materials list (typical)

  • Treated timber for frame + braces
  • Welded mesh (walls + roof)
  • Roof panels (corrugated plastic/metal for at least part of roof)
  • Heavy-duty hinges + bolts + carabiners
  • Ground anchors or base frame

Steps

  1. Build a rigid rectangular frame with cross-bracing.
  2. Add a door frame (wide enough for a wheelbarrow if possible).
  3. Attach mesh with staples/screws + washers (not just staples).
  4. Add roof covering and ensure runoff doesn’t flood the run.
  5. Add dig-proof mesh skirt outward from base.

Design 2: A‑frame run (good for small spaces)

A-frame keeps rain off and can be lighter. The trade-off is less headroom and harder cleaning access.

Access panel

Best practices

  • Include large access panels for cleaning.
  • Anchor it — light runs get moved by wind (and predators).
  • Still dig-proof it (skirt or bury mesh).
  • Add shaded area and dust bath zone.
Don’t kid yourself: “portable” is rarely portable once it’s big enough to be humane.

Design 3: Tractor run (only if you can truly move it)

A moveable run can protect grass — if you can move it daily and it’s predator-proof.

Handle

When tractors fail

  • Too heavy to move (so you stop moving it).
  • Skips dig-proofing “because it moves” (then it doesn’t move…)
  • Gaps at wheels and corners.
Truth: tractors are a lifestyle choice. If you want “set and forget”, build a walk-in run.

Fox-proofing checklist

  • Mesh attached with screws + washers (not just staples).
  • Two-step latching (bolt + clip).
  • No gaps above/below doors.
  • Skirt mesh at least ~30–60 cm outward (or buried mesh).
  • Roof is secure (foxes climb and jump).
  • Night routine: lock birds in coop inside run (double layer).
Next: use the coop/run size calculator so you don’t under-build.