Chicken coop size guide (UK): how big should your coop be?
Ignore the sticker that says “fits 6 hens”. Size your coop so hens sleep comfortably — and so you can clean it without hating your life.
The short version
- Perch space matters more than floor space: hens sleep on perches.
- Ignore “capacity” labels: many are best‑case, summer‑holiday numbers.
- Nest boxes don’t need to match hens: they share (1 box per 3–4 hens is common).
- Ventilation beats “warmth”: damp + ammonia is what causes trouble.
What coop size does (and doesn’t) fix
Coop size is about comfortable roosting and hygienic mornings.
Run size is what prevents bullying, mud, parasites, and boredom.
Use the calculator for run sizing.
Common “too small” symptoms
- hens pushed off perches / sleeping in nest boxes
- strong smell first thing in the morning
- condensation inside the coop
- dirty eggs (hens forced into messy corners)
If you’re seeing these, jump to ventilation and cleaning.
1) Perch space: the easiest sizing check
At night, every hen wants a stable perch position. If they can’t, they jostle, fall, and sleep where they shouldn’t.
Perch layout tips
- Perches should be higher than nest boxes so hens don’t sleep (and poo) in the boxes.
- Use wide, rounded‑edge perches (comfort + foot health).
- Leave enough space between perches so birds don’t poop directly onto each other.
If your coop is “tight”, you can sometimes improve it just by adding a better perch layout — but don’t force a tiny coop to do a big‑flock job.
2) Nest boxes: don’t over-buy
A surprising reality: hens often want the same box, at the same time. More boxes can help, but it’s not the main limiter.
Nest box design that keeps eggs cleaner
- Dark-ish (hens prefer privacy)
- Easy access so you can collect eggs daily
- Enough bedding so eggs don’t crack
Dirty eggs are usually a run/mud + hygiene problem, not “wrong nest boxes”. See mud control.
3) The coop label is marketing. Here’s the reality check.
Coops are often “rated” for the absolute maximum birds you could squeeze in — not for year‑round comfort.
| What you see | What it often means | What to do instead |
|---|---|---|
| “Fits 6 hens” | Small hens, perfect weather, no one grumpy | Size for your actual breeds and assume winter confinement happens |
| Cute miniature coop | Difficult access, fiddly corners, damp build‑up | Choose the coop you can open fully and clean fast |
| Thin run attached | More like a “holding pen” than a run | Plan a proper run: see run sizing + build guides |
4) Ventilation is part of sizing
A coop can be “big enough” and still be unhealthy if it traps moisture.
- Look for high vents (warm, moist air rises)
- Avoid draughts blowing directly onto sleeping birds
- Fix condensation fast (it’s not “normal”)
5) Big breeds need big allowances
A “4 hen coop” might be fine for smaller hybrids… and miserable for heavy birds like Brahmas or Orpingtons.
Use the Breed Finder to identify heavier breeds, then size up.
And don’t forget the run: run sizing guide.
If you only improve one thing… make cleaning fast
The best coop is the one you’ll actually maintain.
- full-width access door
- removable tray / droppings board
- smooth surfaces (fewer mite hideouts)
- easy-to-replace bedding
- smell + flies
- dirty eggs
- parasite build-up (especially in warm months)